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Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

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We are facing the last stage of the Laugavegurinn and only 18 kilometers from Þórsmörk. Snow is a thing of the past and in theory we should not have difficulties during this part of the road, despite its length and slope. Great views await us and we will have a road companion who will accompany us from beginning to end and whose name is unpronounceable, Eyjafjallajökull, the famous volcano that collapsed air traffic in Europe a few years ago.


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

The sunrise of the camp is sunny Emstrur. The temperature is so nice that we take advantage of it for breakfast outside the cabins. In mind we have the 15 kilometers that separate us from Þórsmörk, although this is science fiction since we will take the path to climb up a small hill that offers us spooky views of the volcano Eyjafjallajökull whose name I was unable to pronounce and whose views are to take off the hat.


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

We leave the Emstrur camp and start downhill with the Vatnajökull glacier in the background, the largest in Iceland. Little by little we began to climb a series of steep slopes without difficulty until we began to observe a canyon in the background and that we undoubtedly had to cross.

The conditions of the routeLaugavegurinn They are usually better than those exposed here. Its implementation is recommended from the second half of July until the end of September


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

This canyon was formed by Emstrua river and a bridge had to be placed to cross it. A pretty place that would break the routine of the route a bit, especially when we would later have the opportunity to see the imposing canyon of Markarfljotsggljufur from another point of view.


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

He Markarfljotsggljufur It is truly colossal and there are places where it exceeds 300 meters with ease. This is thanks to the erosion produced by the river Markarfljot and that later will end not far from our destination, Þórsmörk. Here we made a brief stop, tasting a chocolate that tasted like gourmet food.


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

After the grand canyon, we take a dusty road in the direction of the unmistakable Eyjafjallajökull. We began to cross with several groups that made the route in the opposite direction or were just going to spend a night in Emstrur, something common if you only want to see the canyon.


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

The road being quite worn by volcanic activity began to become quite monotonous and the landscape barely changed. From time to time we saw some lava flow and the odd element in the Icelandic landscape ... trees.


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

Trees began to appear more often, especially when we went down through an old lava field that separated a forest and a hateful river, the Throenga. This we keep in the memory to be the last one that made us barefoot to cross it, with the corresponding bad drink when our feet froze.


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

After the bad drink we climbed a track where vehicles could travel and where there are already signs indicating Þórsmörk, the refuge we will reach after 30 minutes. Once there we leave our backpacks in the shelter, we look for a bed and rest 15 minutes before making an extra route.


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

Since Þórsmörk we went to the shelter of Husadalur, a place with hot springs of doubtful quality. There we had a coffee running away from the strong reigning wind and then we continued the road to the Valahnukur, a peak that rises at 458 meters high and is a perfect viewpoint to the Eyjafjallajökull.


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

The climb to this peak was quite strong, surpassing more than 200 meters of unevenness in just over a kilometer, so we did not take it easy to later enjoy really spectacular views. A true end to the Laugavegurinn.


Laugavegurinn stage 4, Emstrur (Botnar) - Þórsmörk

After the prize we went down to Þórsmörk to have a well-deserved dinner and the next day take a bus from there to Reykjavik. This bus is a true SUV, capable of circumventing rivers where other vehicles are incapable and that will take us to the waterfall ofSeljalandsfoss, where we will take a normal bus to the capital of Iceland.

By the way ... if you feel like walking, you can continue the route one more day until Skogafoss, passing a port where you will find safe snow.

Practical data Trekking in Laugavegurinn / Landmannalaugar

How is the crossing indicated?

This part of the road has no loss, besides being the path where we will cross with more people. Still carry map and GPS.

How difficult is this stage?

Despite being quite long, it has little slope and this is saved with gentle slopes and large plains.

What is Þórsmörk's refuge like?

Quite comfortable and a large dining room. In front you can camp and make use of your barbecue. Less than 100 meters away there is a supermarket with basic groceries. The bus to Skogafoss departs by the river.

What is the best time to do the crossing?

July and August. In June the route can still be found with a lot of snow and in September it can start to snow. However, when the snow has not left yet, you will hardly see people during the crossing and that is appreciated.

What should we take to the Landmannalaugar?

  • Warm clothes as if we were in winter.
  • Waterproof, to be able to be membrane Gore Tex or similar.
  • Windbreaker in jacket and pants.
  • Gloves and hat.
  • Flashlight or frontal. The Black Diamond for example are excellent.
  • Flip flops to cross the rivers. It can be done barefoot but it is a martyrdom ...
  • Underwear thermal.
  • Leggings if there is snow. Here is a good example of Leggings and eye with size.
  • Several pairs of socks.
  • Backpack of at least 30l and if we go on our own of 55l or higher.
  • Sleeping bag. The type will depend on whether we sleep in a shelter or in a tent.
  • Optional tent.
  • Map/GPS. Without this, don't even show up. As GPS our recommendation is the Garmin GPSMAP 64.
  • Batteries to spare. There are no plugs in the shelters.
  • Food for 4 days. He Water It can be taken from streams as long as it does not come hot.
  • Stove for those who go for free.
  • Some ibuprofenos never go wrong….
  • Cream and sunglasses.
  • Food and Water for several days. Water is usually drinkable, but be careful where it contains sulfur. If you don't trust, there are Purifiers very useful for hiking.
  • Newspapers to dry the boots every day. Do not wear sneakers.

More information

More information in the article Trekking in Landmannalaugar. Laugavegurinn, 4 shocking days.

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